A thousand miles ago and already half forgotten, as he watches the world pass by
his window and tries to remember. How can anyone forget New York he asks the
passing clouds. He is beginning to develop a habit of talking to himself. He looks around
the thin skinned, steel tube that he and his fellow travelers believe will actually fly them
across the slowly widening Atlantic Ocean, the distance between the old world and the
new growing by a few centimeters every year. Or is it every century? Outside his
window the sun shining into his eyes must be shining from the west, unless the plane
has turned round. Soon it will be sunset.

Or is it sunrise? Too much travel addles the brain; New Zealand, Hawaii, Los Angeles
and lastly New York. Bang, bang, bang. He ticks them off on his fingers. This is the final
leg of his famous ‘round the world’ adventure. And what has he learned? He has learnt
that a ‘Walkman’ uses an awful lot of batteries if you play it all the time. It’s the winding
back that does the damage. That and the outback dust which is still ingrained into his
soul. He has learnt that he is stronger than he ever thought he was but unfortunately he
is no further down the road to making sense of it all. He has been a homeless drifter but
now he is going home.

‘First time I saw the boll-weevil he was sitting on a square’ he sings quietly to himself.
The woman across the aisle glances up from her magazine. Everybody gotta have a
home unless they are ‘Gentleman John Huddie Leadbetter’ or living on the street. It’s the
same the whole world over. You are what you own. In which case, his granite house in
Cornwall means he is surely a ‘somebody’? But then everybody is a ‘somebody’
sometime to someone, even if they do end up a ‘nobody’ dying on a bench and already
conveniently wrapped in plastic. Like the shabby New Yorkers he saw sitting about in
the city parks while all around the money roared.

He remembers the red dust thirsty canyons and the hot springs and the day he arrived
at the not-so-red centre after the first rains in years, to find it green everywhere. He
remembers the bubbling mud on North Island, the reek of sulphur and the crazy flight
to Hawaii where he landed quarter of an hour before he took off and then had to
persuade the American customs not to cut open his sun bleached cricket ball, a souvenir
of some outback asbestos ghost town that he found at the side of a dirt road. Customs
thought it was full of cocaine or something.

He remembers Pearl Harbour, a sobering experience. Imagine dying before you even
know you are at war? Then on to LA, where an American psychiatric nurse had warned
him to beware the pickpockets at Venice Beach and yet ,when they got to the bar, the
nurse found it was his own wallet that had gone missing. And he remembers the guy at
the hotel who had been so amused by his reference to the La Brea tar pits being ‘about
a three quarter walk’ away.

‘Three quarters of what?’ the guy had asked.

‘On the way there you’ll be asked for a quarter three times’.

And the guy knew, more or less exactly, how far he had meant. The actual distance for a
three quarter walk varies from city to city. It seems to be at its shortest in downtown
New York but this was in ‘the late eighties’ before the big clean up that no-one ever asks
any questions about. Despite all this our weary traveler found he quite liked Americans.
Individually they were manageable. En masse they were insane. He glances up at the
screen. The in-flight movie is about a serial killer who kills on certain dates on the
calendar in order to spell out a musical score. He saw it on the way out to Australia a
lifetime ago last year.

Talking of serial killers he remembers how, back in New York he had been firmly
warned, by the effeminate young receptionist at his downtown hotel not to open his
door to anyone.

‘If we need to come in to you we will ring first’ the receptionist had emphasized over
and over and several times.

The traveler had duly noted this information but in truth, his mind was elsewhere. As
was his luggage. ‘Vancouver’, they said when he landed at New York and heard himself
being paged in a country where no-one knew him or where he was. The straight-faced
airline person had told him baldly that they had sent his luggage to Vancouver and then
tried to imply it was possibly all his fault. For the luggage existing in the first place
presumably? They assured him that they would get his luggage back before he left New
York for England. So he went about his touring and was soon busy learning that New
York in the eighties was not an easy place to visit alone. Taxi drivers refused to take him
where he wanted to go.

‘For ya own safety buddy’.

And then one evening there came a knock at his hotel room door. He had been out
‘arting’ with MOMA and was now just relaxing with a brown paper bag full of beer. He
slid off the bed and walked to the door. It wasn’t far. He opened the door, just as he
remembered never to open the door. And there stood six foot five of lean mean black
machismo, diamond crucifix through his ear, chains, the works and smiling the way only
psycho killers smile.

‘I am now dead’ he thought, hoping death would be quick and relatively painless.

The psycho killer looked him over and then said in a voice so camp it regularly went on
holiday with the famous five.

‘You left your key in the door, man. You know that’s not a very good idea round here’.

His would be gay nemesis coyly held out the offending item.

‘Oh, yeah er thanks, thanks a lot’ he flustered taking the key and sweating.

‘Please, don’t mention it and I love the accent’ fluttered his saviour.

Why do Americans do that ‘love the accent’ thing? He could not get the door shut again
quickly enough. Then he only started wondering if he should have tipped him or not?
Like that broken automaton that he had successfully repaired with a five-dollar bill. The
barman had been taciturn and sullen to the point of unfriendliness until the magic five
dollars hit the bottom of the tray. Then he was a man transformed.

‘Hi there buddy where you from?’ asks his new found very best friend.

The barman chatted away happily until the traveller asked casually if the bar had such a
thing as ‘a fag machine’. The look on the barman’s face was well worth five dollars.
Luckily someone translated his request so he was back in Marlboro Country instead of
out on his donkey, as the Americans say. Now he gazes, entranced at the clouds all in
perpetual motion and this time tomorrow where will he be? His mind wanders, he
thinks he sees things in the cloud shapes, faces, horses and then something emerging,
like a ghost ship, from the cloudbank below, a sort of steel tube thing with windows and
writing on it, steel wings with jet engines on them.

And even as he realises that this is not some optical illusion caused by refraction
through the water droplets in the clouds, he also realises that the two aircraft are
definitely going to collide and very soon then there will be a crashing and tearing and
ripping of metal and there will be screams, perhaps an explosion and then two broken
tubes of shattered holes spiralling down spewing out passengers and baggage all the
way to the sea so far below. He is going to die for sure this time. And for some ‘reason’
all he can think of is a pub he never went into somewhere on the North Circular Road.

At which moment he feels his metal tube begin to rise as it veers away from the other
aircraft, then he hears the multiple roar of the engines and somewhere below the
terminal din he hears the collective gasps and sighs of relief of the other passengers as
the other aircraft levels out and now he can see the white faces of the passengers at the
other windows and wonder if his face is just as white looking back. He can hear his
pulse. The endless skyway pilot is all reassurance and calm but everyone knows a
proper job near miss when they see one. It was definitely brown trousers all round, the
fixed grin stewardess looks plastic and sickly.

A ‘No Mr Bond I expect you to die’ moment that was and no mistake and yet here he is
still going strong. Is life trying to tell me something, he wonders. Just recently he has
fallen in a river full of crocodiles, been lost in the outback, survived a car crash in
Queensland then left his key in a hotel door, more or less next to a neon sign saying
‘Please murder me’, and now this? He begins to wonder if he has become somehow
indestructible like Captain Scarlet but before he gets too carried away and after some
consideration he mutters,

‘I bet I get off the plane and walk straight under a fucking bus’.

Death will find him in his, or her, own good time no doubt.  If nothing else he is a
survivor. Now the pilot says his bit and the safety belt light goes on and another 747
descends through the fluffy stuff and into the haze above London town and there is ‘the
river’ and down and down and down and down and down and down we go, hurry now
darling we mustn’t be late for the bump trundle, trundle and on and on until the
airplane has become just a curiously shaped bus once again. Everybody is scrabbling for
bags, coats, outback cricket balls, and so on. And he is home. And nobody cares. And
because he is crazy, he feels like a character in a sci-fi story he read long ago. ‘Just call
me Joe Vargo’ he tells the broken baggage carousel.

America where are you now? Gone, gone and the damage done. He had been only
seconds from death but now it felt as if he was back from the stars and the big apple
only to find himself stuck on an island watching the planes fly overhead, the ships pass
him by en route to the distant lights of the city. ‘Just call me Joe Vargo’ he tells the
Piccadilly Line ticket machine but the machine says nothing. It just takes his money and
gives him nothing in return. Now he knows for sure that he is really back home where
he belongs and not stranded on some island waiting to die alone and forgotten. There
will be more near misses somewhere down the line no doubt. There is always death, just
like there is always hope.


© David Rowland

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